vastbed.blogg.se - Keymo vs asr

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Taper Mount Repeatability and versatility.

This product allows you to affordable kit up with the best muzzle devices in the industry. Precision, durability, and value are at the core of Griffin product design and manufacturing. Machined in our Watertown headquarters from billet 17-4 stainless steel, this adapter provides a precision made interface that gives you access to nationally recognized Griffin Taper Mounts and accessories. Oh, and an Omega 9k, but it uses a booster and technically that's a mount so.The Taper Mount PLAN-A™ adapter provides a Griffin Taper Mount interface for Silencerco® Hybrid™, OMEGA™, and Harvester 338™ as well as DEAD AIR ARMAMENT™ NOMAD™, and other suppressors with mount interface inside diameter threading of 1.375x24. My only direct thread is also a bolt gun, a. It's also a lot faster to take on and off. Some barrels may not leave enough shoulder for the can to seat well against. With the mounts, they can mitigate that to a degree and if nothing else, give you a consistent and solid shoulder and good mount each time. direct thread, well, if the threads on your rifle aren't spot on you could end up with more run out than you want and possibly a baffle or cap strike.

So I got two ASR brakes in 5.56 (which I later realized I should have got the flash hider, being 5.56 who really needs a brake?).Īnyway, both of those mounts lock up tight and don't move, true QD mounts. Turns out in that time Sico has decided the ASR mount is better than the Trifecta and that's what they recommend now. I recently just got two more Saker's on sale for less than I paid for the first one. I have a Saker and it uses the Trifecta flash hider, which I really like. So that little test was enough to assuage my concerns on that issue. I shot 10 shots taking the can off in between each on and the lock up was exactly the same each time with the point of impact being the same each time. And I see zero evidence in my practices that the direct thread could be any more repeatable than the asr module. Unless you use the spanner wrenches to tighten it down when hot but then separating the two would be a biatch when cool. I would be afraid of the direct thread having the issue of the thread module unscrewing from the can body when the body gets hot and expands. But then again idiots wouldnt be following a regimen so maybe not idiot proof.

Since I have adopted my tightening procedure I have zero issues and I consider it idiot proof. When I first got it I tried to remove a hot can by the body and I just unscrewed the body leaving the module and all that attached to the brake. By doing both of those you will also tighten and not loosen the asr module/can body connection on accident. If you loosen by the module you will ensure that the lock is all of the way open and not drag teeth.

If you tighten by the can body you will avoid bumping the modules slide lock. I suspect that people that blow their cans off accidentally spin the can on by the module bumping the slide lock causing the teeth to lock prematurely before the can fully seats.

BUT it has to be pretty crooked to have that happen. There is a shoulder it bumps up against and if you put it on crooked it will just rotate around that shoulder without engaging the threads. The threads are course and its easy to see if it is actually tightening onto the barrel or not. Provided you focus on it actually threading on. If you attach the can holding it by the body and detach it by the module youll never have any issues.